Chiang Mai Street Food at Chang Phueak (ช้างเผือก)

There’s a lot of delicious Chiang Mai street food to eat when you visit, and one of my favorite places in the city, during the evening is Chang Phueak. More details here:

If you love to eat Thai street food, you’ll have no problem discovering the full range, more like a plethora of food available at your fingertips when you’re in Chiang Mai. From the morning until the evening you’ll find street food vendors scattered throughout the city, and tucked into shopping markets. While there are many places to eat Chiang Mai street food in the evening, one place that I really like is called Pratu Chang Phueak (ช้างเผือก), which literally translates to the sacred white elephant gate. It’s located right across the street from the north side of the Chiang Mai wall, so the area is easily accessible central Chiang Mai.

During the daytime, Chang Phueak (ช้างเผือก) is more of just an empty sidewalk, with some stores, but not too much going on. In the evening is when the Chiang Mai street food stall begin to set up their shops and open for business. My wife told me there were two main stall we needed to eat at, one for the stewed pork leg, known in Thai as kha moo, and one for the suki, the Thai style of sukiyaki.

We first started with a stall known as Khao Kha Moo Chang Phueak (ข้าวขาหมูช้างเผือก). You’ll know you’re in the right spot because of the owner, who is the vendor, who sells her stewed pork leg while wearing a cowboy hat – you can also call her stall, the Cowboy lady street food stall in Chiang Mai, and everyone will know who you’re talking about. She serves a Thai dish known as khao kha moo (ข้าวขาหมู), which is pork leg or knuckle, served with rice. I ordered just a normal plate, so it came with rice on the bottom and a good handful of tender pork on top. Along with the pork, I got a hard boiled egg and then garnished my entire dish with vinegar, raw garlic, and raw chilies. I would have to say it was one of the better plates of khao kha moo (ข้าวขาหมู) that I’ve ever had – I would highly recommend it.

After completing my plate of khao kha moo (ข้าวขาหมู), I went next door to the next Chiang Mai street food stall known as Suki Koka (สุกี้โคคา). They are equally as famous as the pork leg stall, but for the Thai dish of suki. You can either order the dry stir fried version, or the soup version of Thai suki: I got the suki haeng moo (สุกี้แห้งหมู), the dry version with pork. It was a mixture of mostly napa cabbage, pork, and mung bean noodles, all served with a sauce that was tangy and had a wonderful aroma of sesame oil to it. I absolutely loved the suki at Suki Koka (สุกี้โคคา). It was different from other Thai versions that I’ve had before, and it was so fresh and there was so much flavor packed into it – excellent. There are a few other street food stalls to choose from, but these two are the most popular, and I think they serve the best food.

Here are the two street food stalls I ate at Chang Phueak (ช้างเผือก).
Khao Kha Moo Chang Phueak (ข้าวขาหมูช้างเผือก):
Suki Koka (สุกี้โคคา):

When you’re looking for great street food in Chiang Mai, make sure you go to Chang Phueak (ช้างเผือก) in the evening and eat at these two stalls.

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